Here is another attempt at interpreting the diversity of the Kenyan landscape, this time a national park.

Meru National Park is located approximately 350 km from Nairobi and is a hidden gem for all wildlife and nature lovers.

Last year, amidst several park visits, Meru NP stood out as our favorite experience. Our stay was short (3 days, 2 nights) but the experience is still very memorable. We visited the park in May 2023, a lovely season after the rains and the park was green and lush. We plan to go back in another season and see what changes.

Meru NP is home to among others, the big 5 (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo), some of the Samburu special five (beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe, somali ostrich, grevy's zebra, rerenuk), *not sure if all 5 are available), many bird species, etc.

It is nestled amidst lush green vegetation, red volcanic soil, and expansive open plains which regrettably, we couldn't fully explore (the park is huge, covering around 870 square km). Nourished by 13 rivers and numerous streams. Found on the slopes of Nyambene ranges and sits to the northeast of Mount Kenya, past Meru and Maua town.

There are two routes to get here:
1) Nairobi - Embu - Meru
2) Nairobi - Nanyuki - Meru - Opting for the Nanyuki route led us to the Murera gate, one of the park's two entrances, the other being the Ura gate.

Meru NP is a part of the Meru Conservation Area that collectively spans 4,000 square km, and includes two reserves and two national parks -  Bisanadi NR, Mwingi NR, Kora NP, and Meru NP. An area around the Tana River system, Kenya's longest river.

We stayed at Rhino River Camp, opposite the Rhino Sanctuary gate to the park. The tented camp is set along a riverline, the Kindani River. Offering an authentic nature immersion with a blend of luxury and exploration. With a restaurant, bar, pool, play area with board games, daily game drives, and impeccable service, it's a perfect space for glamping and enjoying the luxury of being in nature.

Though we enjoy camping, this was a different experience and a welcome change once in a while when the budget allows. The cost is high if you are used to camping in the wild, but their service and experience are well worth your money. There is a public camping site in the park that we plan to stay at the next time we visit.

Some highlights of our visit include:
1) Abundant wildlife  - We were treated to several herds of buffaloes, many hippos (make sure to have breakfast by the hippos), elephants, giraffes, rhinos (they have a rhino sanctuary), many bird species, and lovely vegetation among others.
2) Best guided service we've had so far - The guide from the Rhino River camp and organized by Porini camps was knowledgeable, shared a lot of insights on nature, culture, the national park business, and reflected on his career as a guide. We're deeply grateful for his expertise and how he is passionately dedicated to the job and the need to protect nature and wildlife, he also shared sustainable travel tips especially in parks. Bless his heart.
3) The road trip - Through a lovely landscape. From Timau to Meru, the expansive landscape leading to Meru screams fertile and productive grounds where nature thrives and people are hard at work. We even got a chance to observe the renowned khat (miraa) business. Those cars move fast! It's always great interacting with the people and observing the economic activities of a place.

Some other things about Meru np:
Featured in the film "Born Free," Meru boasts the burial site of Elsa, immortalized by George and Joy Adamson's work.
Despite past challenges with poaching, the park has made remarkable strides in conservation efforts.

And these two warm ones were a treat, after several days of dusty overlanding and camping on two separate occasions.

• Buffalo Springs, tucked inside the Buffalo Springs National Reserve.
• The warm springs at Netbon Bogoria Kudi Camp near Lake Bogoria National Reserve.

Buffalo Springs Natural Pool

This was our last stop on a 7-day camping expedition, ‘cradle of mankind’, that was organized by the Mara nomads (check them out, they coordinate family-friendly expeditions).

It’s said that the crater (pool) that gets filled from underground spring water was formed after a bombing during WWII. The pool is a lovely welcome and a great dip in the scorching Samburu heat and is a must-stop if you are going or coming from the North.  

Reserve charges apply  - KES 500  (as of August, '23)

Best accessed from the Chokaa gate, if coming from Nairobi that’s the second gate towards the Mt Ololokwe direction. And whilst you are there, drive around the park, you might spot some animals.

How about natural hot springs?

While camping at Netbon Bogoria Kudi Camp, we took a dip in the Maji Moto hot springs. They are just a minute's walk from the camp. The water was a lovely turquoise blue, clean, and clear in the morning. Once you get in, it gets muddy but it’s great for small groups.

The camping fee was KES 800 per person for the night, KES 250 for accessing the springs, and KES 400 for a bonfire. (as of May, '23)

After Kudu, we headed back to Nairobi through Lake Bogorial National Reserve. The reserve fee was KES 400, and KES 500 for the car.

Lake Bogorial Geyseys - Lake Bogoria is home to very many flamingos, hot springs, and geysers at the backdrop of a lovely landscape. The geysers' eruptions were marvelous to witness.

Natural pools and hot springs hold ecological memories of a place.

We still remember the feel of the mud in the hot springs and the slime on the rock at the Buffalo springs. And how good we felt after that first dip. It’s good and memorable to experience a dip from a natural sprout of the earth. They are joyous, a welcome surprise, and a lovely discovery. Especially after a long drive.

We sure foresee going back to these several times.  Some say hot springs have healing capabilities from the minerals contained, and while we don't have clear proof, we sure felt some deep nature connection.

One of the best things about camping has been discovering more local brands. Here are some products we love. We will continue adding to this list as we have more on our wishlist.

1. Cinnabar green - Their Geranium and Thyme body and handwash are a fave. We first discovered this brand at the Rhino River camp in Meru.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxgVhy1IXLw/

2. Sandstorm - The Explorer duffle bag is a great family pack for the weekend. A bit pricey but we bet this will last with us for many adventures.

3. Koko cooker - We use this for cooking at camp. It's a bit bulky to carry around but works well for quick camp meals, especially with the double burner. Also, yay for clean cooking!

4. Well hung butcher & Morendat farm - For all meet needs plus meaty snacks.

5. Park maps - Found in bookshops or sometimes at park gates. We've been collecting these as memorabilia. Bookstop at Yaya has several options.

6. French press from Artcafe - Great for rough handling at camp as it's steel.

French coffee press

https://www.artcaffemarket.co.ke/product/french-coffee-press/

This is a growing list, more to come ...........

What is a good pace? What is a bad pace? Who gets to determine the pace? Are we in control?

After the chaos of COVID-19 and the endless days spent indoors, we have all been craving a break from Zoom meetings, excessive screen time, and mundane routines confined within four walls of our apartments. We all want to be outside. And it sure is a treat to be immersed in nature. Time passes differently while sleeping on open grounds in Koobi Fora under a clear night full of stars.

We like the pace of the outdoors. It’s hard to put this in perspective, but we can try.

From rushing to not miss a sunset to slowing down to take a view in, the pace is sometimes slow, other times fast depending on what one seeks.

A most memorable moment for us was the pressure to get through the gate of a national park as we had underestimated the time and the gates close at 6 pm. While we needed to speed up and get there in time, you could feel the pressure, and enthusiasm for camping turned into anxiety about getting locked out. Pace goes beyond the literal speed, to a feeling, in a given time and place.

In outdoorsy adventures, 'pace' is omnipresent.

It's about the speed, rhythm, flow, and how we want to experience any activity. It's an energy that surrounds the adventure. The tempo we adopt, whether individually or as a group. Sometimes it’s about going with the flow either imposed by nature or self-imposed. Lazy evenings with play and conversations, slow mornings, or collaborative packing when it's time to leave.

Phrases like 'at your own pace,' 'watch your pace,' 'pace yourself,' and 'pick your pace' come to mind. The reaction to such depends on the mood and state of mind one is in. For instance, 'at your own pace' lands well when one is trying to navigate the last stretch of a hike at the humbling Elephant Hill (a story for another day), while "pick up the pace" might not be the best thing one wants to hear on the last km of a Lewa marathon (one of the best weekend experience we have had).

Pace is crucial in various settings, be it hiking, walking, running, cooking at camp, or off-roading. It’s about being mindful, knowing your limits, pushing boundaries, enhancing endurance, or simply slowing down to appreciate the moment. Sometimes a call to observe, be open-minded, listen, push more, let your senses wander, or speed up to not miss out on the last moments of a sunset that wait for no one.

In groups, pace could be about sticking together, moving in a convoy, communicating over walkie-talkies, and ensuring no one is left behind. A form of camaraderie.

Individually, pacing is more personal. Finding comfort in your rhythm. Solo, it can be easy to determine your own pace, but within a large group, it can be a struggle to keep up. For instance, in large group adventures, we’ve found keeping up with speed on the road a bit challenging. Cars have differing capabilities off-road, driving styles vary, and sometimes, a need to keep distance to avoid being covered in clouds of dust, as was the case in a group trip to the Chalbi Dessert. While traveling in groups is great as it builds community, and is safer for certain environments, it can be a challenge to keep up. For instance, you might want to take a break to take in a view on the road while others might not find it appealing. Balancing and a bit of compromise come in handy in such a setup.

There are instances where pace becomes exhilarating. For instance, a rush of adrenaline on open roads with windows down or when you see the peak after hours of hiking. Other times, slowing down and taking it all in is the reason we go outdoorsy.

One key lesson we’ve learned in adventure is the art of pacing.

Building your own pace. This can be achieved through taking breaks, having an early start, structuring plans to allow for leisurely days, or going all out when wanting to meet some goals.

Some of this pacing is self-imposed, while others are dictated by nature. Like slowing down on rocky terrain, speeding up on loose sandy trails, pushing oneself to make it in time to catch a sunset atop Mt. Ololokwe, increasing pace to meet a marathon goal, or surrendering to slow cooking when the winds up north get intense. On our trip to Lake Turkana and Koobi Fora, we had really underestimated cooking in a windy camp.

Reflecting on pace, we realize that motivations for adventure vary. In our case, it’s mostly been about slowing down, seeking solace from the chaos of the everyday hustle, and immersing ourselves in the serenity of slow adventures. To take in landscapes, and culture, talk to people, and observe the infrastructure and economic activities. Whether it’s absorbing a breathtaking view or marveling at how the sunrise hits the water while camping at Malindi National Reserve. Pacing becomes both a practice and a necessity.

What is gained transfers to everyday life. We've learned to pace ourselves, remain adaptable, and align our pace with our goals, both on and off the road.

Some things require energetic vibes, while others demand a slow tempo. Beyond speed, slow or hasty, and how things move, we think pace is a mood, an adventure energy, an approach to life.

Some tips, thoughts, and observations on camping.

1. Packing is a skill, pack light.
2. Prioritize the essentials.
3. Have collaborative planning lists or docs.
4. Divide and concur the prep and research work.
5. If going with kids, involve them in packing too, it gets them excited about the trip.
6. The weather app is a handy guide.
7. Plan your route on maps.
8. Camping can be costly, start small, and build gear over time. Don't cave into the pressure of having it all.
9. You will make mistakes with gear.
10. Researching prior on the place and the people preps you for adventure.
11. Be ready to engage all senses, camping is a multisensory adventure. Lots to see, touch, smell, hear, and taste.
12. The journey is the destination.
13. Playlists help, rotate the aux around.
14. Other times silence works, but don't sleep and leave the driver bored.
15. Sometimes the road trip is long, find small joys.
16. Stay observant on the way. Speak about what you see.
17. There's an expansive feeling of leaving the city, landscapes are expansive.
18. You’ll quickly learn that life is expansive too.
19. Sometimes you can camp near home, you don’t always need to take long trips away.
20. It's a chance for unplugging. Do a digital detox, no screens, no algorithms, just you and your curiosity.
21. Getting lost is normal.
22. Prepare to change plans, and stay adaptable.
23. Research on things to do on the way and around camp.
24. Move sustainably, move green, and leave no trace.
25. If camping at National parks, be mindful of park rules and entry times.
26. Pitching camp is a team effort. No matter how tired you are.
27. Upper body strength comes in handy, there’s a lot of lifting.
28. You'll probably have a chance to see the sun go down, never miss the sunset.
29. The pleasure of a cocktail as you watch the sunset.
30. Or the sound of a beer can opening around the campfire.
31. Know how to light a fire.
32. Soon, night bugs come to life.
33. As so do many other animals.
34. Fear is normal, but don’t be too scared. It's part of the thrill.
35. If in a shared campsite, be curious to see other people’s gear, that’s how you get inspired.
36. The camp setup differs, we’re all uniquely creative, get inspired, and tell about it.
37. Observe the night sky.
38. Stargaze.
39. Dance in the moonlight.
40. Enjoy the pitch darkness.
41. Marvel in the silence.
42. Don’t be lax on the sleep setup.
43. Headlamps are a must-have.
44. Quick meals are a hack, get creative, pre-boil, pre-prep, make your life easy but still eat well.
45. Cook before sunset if you can.
46. Dealing with bugs. Long sleeves and socks beat repellents.
47. Carry games, play oral games too.
48. Be up for the sunrise.
49. The smell of morning coffee.
50. Notice the condensation on the tent and car.
51. Have some morning rituals eg setting up the camp table for breakfast.
52. Shower setups will depend on where you camp, so be adaptable.
53. Leave time for activities in the neighborhood. Hiking, game drive, etc.
54. Respect local cultures.
55. You’ll build your camping kit over time. Thrifting saves you money.
56. Frustrations turn to amusing stories later.
57. You’ll soon learn and appreciate the privileges of city life, tap water, light, etc.
58. Keep the adventure spirit during and after camp.
59. Be ready for clean up after camping, sometimes it's dust, and other times it's mud.
60. Inspire others to be out in nature, whatever that means for them.